Kev lag luam dyeing muaj teeb meem
Muaj ntau yam teeb meem nrog rau tam sim no textile dyeing thiab kev kho mob, thiab yuav luag tag nrho cov ntawm lawv muaj feem xyuam rau cov dej ntau dhau thiab cov pa phem.Dyeing paj rwb yog tshwj xeeb tshaj yog dej-intensive, raws li nws tau kwv yees tias dyeing thiab xov yuav siv li ntawm 125 litres dej ib kilogram ntawm paj rwb fibers.Tsis tsuas yog dyeing xav tau cov dej loj loj, nws tseem tso siab rau lub zog loj los ua kom sov dej thiab chav dej uas tsim nyog rau qhov xav tau.
Kwv yees li 200,000 tons ntawm dyes (tus nqi 1 billion USD) tau poob rau effluent vim tsis muaj dyeing thiab tiav cov txheej txheem (Chequer li al., 2013).Qhov no txhais tau hais tias kev ua dyeing tam sim no tsis yog tsuas yog nkim cov peev txheej thiab nyiaj txiag xwb, tab sis kuj tso cov tshuaj lom mus rau hauv cov dej tshiab.60 mus rau 80 feem pua ntawm tag nrho cov dyes yog AZO dyes, ntau yam uas paub tias yog carcinogenic.Chlorobenzenes feem ntau yog siv los zas polyester, thiab muaj tshuaj lom thaum nqus tau los yog ncaj qha rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij.Perfluorinated chemicals, formaldehydes thiab chlorinated paraffin yog siv rau hauv cov txheej txheem ua tiav los tsim cov dej tsis zoo los yog nplaim hluav taws, los yog tsim cov ntaub yooj yim.
Raws li kev lag luam sawv niaj hnub no, cov khoom siv tshuaj tsis tas yuav tsum muab tag nrho cov khoom xyaw hauv cov dyes.Daim ntawv tshaj tawm xyoo 2016 los ntawm KEMI pom tias ze li ntawm 30% ntawm cov tshuaj siv hauv textile manufacturing thiab dyeing yog tsis pub lwm tus paub.Qhov tsis muaj pob tshab no txhais tau hais tias cov neeg muab tshuaj lom neeg tuaj yeem siv cov tshuaj lom rau hauv cov khoom uas tom qab ntawd ua rau muaj kuab paug hauv dej thaum tsim khoom thiab ua rau cov neeg hnav khaub ncaws tiav.
Peb paub tias muaj ntau yam tshuaj lom neeg uas siv los zas peb cov khaub ncaws, tab sis tsis muaj kev paub thiab tsis pom zoo txog lawv cov khoom muaj feem xyuam rau tib neeg thiab ib puag ncig kev noj qab haus huv.Kev paub tsis txaus txog cov tshuaj siv tshuaj yog vim muaj kev sib cais thiab cov vev xaib ntawm cov khoom sib txuas thiab kev faib tawm.80% ntawm cov khoom siv textile muaj nyob sab nraud ntawm Tebchaws Meskas thiab EU, ua rau nws nyuaj rau tsoomfwv los tswj cov tshuaj uas siv rau hauv cov khaub ncaws muag hauv tsev.
Raws li ntau tus neeg siv khoom paub txog cov teeb meem cuam tshuam ntawm kev coj ua dyeing tam sim no, cov thev naus laus zis tshiab ua rau muaj txiaj ntsig zoo dua, muaj txiaj ntsig zoo thiab muaj txiaj ntsig dyeing lwm txoj hauv kev.Kev tsim kho tshiab hauv dyeing thev naus laus zis yog los ntawm kev kho mob ua ntej ntawm paj rwb, kev siv CO2 dye pressurized, thiab txawm tsim cov xim ntuj los ntawm microbes.Kev tsim kho tshiab dyeing tam sim no tuaj yeem pab txo qis kev siv dej, hloov cov kev coj ua tsis zoo nrog cov txiaj ntsig zoo thiab muaj txiaj ntsig zoo thiab sim hloov pauv txoj hauv kev uas peb tsim cov pigments uas muab peb cov khaub ncaws zoo nkauj xim uas peb nyiam.
Waterless technologies rau sustainable dyeing
Cov txheej txheem dyeing ntawm textiles txawv nyob ntawm seb hom ntaub.Paj rwb dyeing yog ib tug ntev thiab ntau dej thiab kub-intensive txheej txheem, vim tsis zoo nto ntawm paj rwb fibers.Qhov no txhais tau hais tias feem ntau paj rwb tsuas yog siv li ntawm 75% ntawm cov xim uas siv.Txhawm rau kom paub tseeb tias cov xim tuav, cov ntaub dyed los yog xov paj yog ntxuav thiab ua kom sov ntau dua, ua rau cov dej khib nyiab loj heev.ColorZen siv lub tshuab patented uas ua ntej kho paj rwb ua ntej nws yuav spun.Qhov kev kho ua ntej no ua rau cov txheej txheem dyeing sai dua, txo 90% ntawm kev siv dej, 75% tsawg zog thiab 90% cov tshuaj tsawg dua uas yuav xav tau rau kev dyeing paj rwb zoo.
dyeing hluavtaws fibers, xws li polyester, yog ib tug luv luv txheej txheem thiab 99% los yog ntau dua dye fixation (99% ntawm cov xim uas yog siv los ntawm cov ntaub).Txawm li cas los xij, qhov no tsis tau txhais hais tias kev dyeing tam sim no muaj kev ruaj ntseg dua.AirDye siv cov dyes dispersed uas yog siv rau cov ntawv nqa khoom.Nrog cua sov ib leeg, AirDye hloov dye los ntawm daim ntawv mus rau textile nto.Cov txheej txheem kub kub no ua rau xim cov xim ntawm cov qib molecular.Cov ntawv uas siv tau tuaj yeem siv dua, thiab siv dej tsawg dua 90%.Tsis tas li ntawd, 85% tsawg zog yog siv vim tias cov ntaub ntawv tsis tas yuav tsum tau tsau rau hauv dej thiab cua sov kom qhuav ntau dhau.
DyeCoo siv CO₂ dye textiles nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem kaw.“Thaum muaj kev kub ntxhov, CO₂ ua supercritical (SC-CO₂).Hauv lub xeev no CO₂ muaj lub zog hnyav heev, tso cai rau cov xim kom yaj tau yooj yim.Ua tsaug rau qhov siab permeability, dyes yog thauj yooj yim thiab tob rau hauv fibers, tsim cov xim vibrant. "DyeCoo tsis xav tau dej, thiab lawv siv cov xim ntshiab nrog 98% uptake.Lawv cov txheej txheem zam dhau dyes nrog cov tshuaj hnyav thiab tsis muaj dej khib nyiab tsim thaum lub sijhawm ua haujlwm.Lawv tau muaj peev xwm ua kom tau raws li cov thev naus laus zis no thiab muaj kev pom zoo ua lag luam los ntawm ob qho tib si textile mills thiab cov neeg siv kawg.
Pigments los ntawm microbes
Feem ntau ntawm cov khaub ncaws peb hnav niaj hnub no yog xim siv hluavtaws dyes.Qhov teeb meem ntawm cov no yog tias cov khoom siv tseem ceeb, xws li cov roj crude yog xav tau thaum lub sij hawm tsim khoom thiab cov tshuaj ntxiv yog tshuaj lom rau ib puag ncig thiab peb lub cev.Txawm hais tias ntuj dyes tsis muaj tshuaj lom ntau dua li cov xim hluavtaws, lawv tseem xav tau thaj av ua liaj ua teb thiab tshuaj tua kab rau cov nroj tsuag uas tsim cov dyes.
Cov chaw kuaj mob thoob plaws ntiaj teb tab tom nrhiav txoj hauv kev tshiab los tsim cov xim rau peb cov khaub ncaws: kab mob.Streptomyces coelicolor yog microbe uas ib txwm hloov xim raws li pH ntawm nruab nrab nws loj hlob sab hauv.Los ntawm kev hloov nws ib puag ncig, nws muaj peev xwm tswj tau hom xim uas nws dhau los.Cov txheej txheem ntawm dyeing nrog cov kab mob pib los ntawm autoclaving ib lub textile los tiv thaiv kev kis kab mob, tom qab ntawd nchuav cov kua nruab nrab uas muaj cov kab mob hauv cov khoom siv hauv cov ntaub ntawv hauv lub thawv.Tom qab ntawd, cov ntaub ntub dej ntub tau raug cov kab mob thiab tso rau hauv chav tswj huab cua rau ob peb hnub.Cov kab mob yog "nyob dyeing" cov khoom, txhais tau hais tias thaum cov kab mob loj hlob, nws yog dyeing cov ntaub ntawv.Cov textile yog rinsed thiab maj mam ntxuav tawm cov ntxhiab tsw ntawm cov kab mob nruab nrab, ces cia kom qhuav.Cov kab mob dyes siv dej tsawg dua li cov xim dyes, thiab tuaj yeem siv los zas ntau cov qauv sib txawv nrog ntau yam xim.
Faber Future, ib lub chaw kuaj mob hauv UK, yog siv cov khoom siv hluavtaws los ua cov kab mob los tsim ntau yam xim uas tuaj yeem siv los pleev xim rau ob qho tib si hluavtaws thiab ntuj fibers (xws li paj rwb).
Living Color yog ib txoj haujlwm biodesign raws li hauv Netherlands uas tseem tab tom tshawb nrhiav qhov muaj peev xwm ntawm kev siv cov kab mob pigment-ua rau xim rau peb cov khaub ncaws.Xyoo 2020, Lub Neej Xim thiab PUMA koom ua ke los tsim thawj cov kab mob dyed ua kis las.
Sustainable dyeing startups nyob rau hauv peb ecosystem
Plug thiab Play nquag tshawb nrhiav cov thev naus laus zis tshiab uas pab txhawb kev hloov pauv ntau yam hauv kev lag luam dyeing.Peb txuas cov kev pib tshiab tshiab nrog peb lub network dav ntawm cov neeg koom tes, cov kws cob qhia, thiab cov tub ua lag luam.
Ua raws li qee qhov ntawm peb cov nyiam:
Werewool tau txais kev tshoov siab los ntawm xwm los tsim cov yeeb yuj textiles uas los ntawm cov proteins.Ib qho ntawm cov proteins no yog los ntawm Discosoma Coral uas tsim cov xim liab liab.DNA ntawm cov protein no tuaj yeem muab luam tawm thiab muab tso rau hauv cov kab mob.Cov kab mob no tuaj yeem ua rau hauv fiber ntau los ua cov ntaub xim.
Peb yog SpinDye dyes siv cov ntaub ntawv rov qab los ntawm cov fwj dej tom qab cov neeg siv khoom lossis cov khaub ncaws khib nyiab ua ntej lawv muab spun rau hauv xov paj.Lawv cov thev naus laus zis ua rau cov xim xim xim thiab rov ua dua polyester ua ke yam tsis tas siv dej, uas txo cov dej siv tag nrho los ntawm 75%.Nyob rau hauv cov xov xwm tsis ntev los no, H&M tau siv We aRe SpinDye® cov txheej txheem dyeing hauv lawv Cov Kev Sau Kom Zoo.
huue.ua kom ruaj khov, biosynthetic indigo xiav txhais tau tias rau kev lag luam denim.Lawv cov thev naus laus zis tsis siv roj av, cyanide, formaldehyde lossis txo cov neeg ua haujlwm.Qhov no tshem tawm cov dej paug loj heev.Es tsis txhob siv tshuaj lom, huue.siv qab zib los ua dye.Lawv siv cov cuab yeej siv bioengineering los tsim cov kab mob microbes uas tsom iav qhov txheej txheem thiab noj qab zib kom enzymatically tsim cov xim.
Peb tseem muaj hauj lwm ua
Txhawm rau kom tau hais txog kev pib ua lag luam thiab thev naus laus zis kom vam meej thiab nce mus txog qib kev lag luam, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas peb tsav kev nqis peev thiab kev koom tes ntawm cov tuam txhab me me no, thiab cov tuam txhab zam thiab tshuaj lom neeg loj dua.
Nws yog tsis yooj yim sua rau cov thev naus laus zis tshiab los ua kev lag luam muaj txiaj ntsig zoo uas cov khw muag khoom lag luam yuav txais yuav yam tsis muaj kev nqis peev thiab kev koom tes.Kev sib koom tes ntawm Living Color thiab PUMA, los yog SpinDye® thiab H&M tsuas yog ob qho ntawm ntau qhov kev sib koom ua ke tsim nyog uas yuav tsum tau txuas ntxiv yog tias cov tuam txhab tau cog lus tiag tiag los hloov mus rau cov kev coj ua dyeing kom ruaj khov uas txuag cov peev txheej muaj nuj nqis thiab tsis txhob ua phem rau ib puag ncig.
Post lub sij hawm: Mar-14-2022